* Hello, my friends! welcome to letra e fel! If you like this space, please share it with your friends.
* Dzień dobry, drogi czytelniku, witaj w blogu Letra e Fel! Dziękujemy za wizytę. Jeśli nasz blog ci sie spodobał, poleć go swoim znajomym.
*!Hola! , amigo lector. Sea bienvenido y si le gustó mi blog, recoméndelo a sus amigos!
*Cher lecteur, soyez le bienvenu! Veuillez conseiller notre blog à vos amis si vous l'avez aimé. Merci beaucoup!

31/10/2012

World Public Health Nutrition Association: Culinary tradition (by Fábio Gomes)

site: WPHNA

Vila Velha, Espírito Santo. I'm writing this column from the place where food started to burn with passion in my heart. I was born in Rio de Janeiro, but spent a great part of my childhood and adolescence living in Vila Velha. This, once a little town, became the centre of what is today the state of Espírito Santo, located in the Southeast region of Brazil, surrounded by the states of Minas Gerais, Rio de Janeiro, Bahia and the great Atlantic Ocean.
You can imagine the great mixture that has emerged from this combination. Although Espírito Santo is known for innumerable beauties and delights, such as its coffee, its greatest treat is the Moqueca Capixaba which you see in the picture above, served accompanied with rice, and with pirão, the sauce made with the fish juices and manioc (cassava) flour.
The pot and the potters
Moqueca Capixaba ('capixaba' simply means 'from Espírito Santo') is more than a culinary delight. With its preparation, it is part of the culture of these parts. The authentic dish is prepared in a special mud (earthenware) pot, designed by the potters of Goiabeiras. By mixing their sweat, their joy, the mud, and pigments from the red mangrove tree, these women create unique, resistant and long lasting pots. The work of the Goiabeiras potters is recognised as 'an intangible cultural heritage' of Brazil (1) Yes, it is possible to make a Moqueca Capixaba in any earthenware pot, but cooked in a Goiabeiras mud pot it tastes intangibly better!
The ingredients

In the North-Eastern states of Brazil there are also fish stews that are called moqueca. But the Moqueca Capixaba is special. Besides its mud pot, its secret is its simplicity. You just need (very) fresh fish, coriander (shown in the picture above), chives, tomatoes, onions, garlic, salt, limes, and olive oil. The North-Eastern fish stews are 'richer' – they include pepper, eggs, potatoes, carrots, palm oil and/or coconut milk. They are good, but they are not the Moqueca I love. Try and judge for yourself.

So many Brazilian poets mingle the sensuality of food and the sexuality of love. Here, above and below, is the young brilliant Capixaba writer Renata Bomfim:
Moqueca Capixaba
She becomes hot so slowly,
(Ela vai sendo aquecida, lenta e)
gently, on a low flame,
(delicadamente, em fogo brando.)
At the table, the loved one,
(Sobre a mesa, o namorado,)
warmed and amorous, awaits.
(temperado com amor, espera.)

Daughter of black native earth,
(Pretinha de barro, filha de indio)
In your lap, the fruit of the sea
(seu colo acolhe o fruto do mar)
is bubbling now, heavy with aroma.
(fervilhante, emana seu odor.)
And all of us wait, eager.
(Esperam-na todos, deleitantes.)

Now, a good table wine,
(Um bom vinho, à mesa,)
then a time of silence
(um silêncio respeitoso,)
while mouths moisten
(as bocas anseiam e marejam)
like sails, experiencing the sea.
(como velas errantes ao mar.)

Now it is the loved one that
(E o namorado vai sendo devorado,)
is devoured, transubstantiated.
(transubstanciação)
With Holy Spirit in our mouths,
(Espírito Santo no ceu da boca.)
Moqueca capixaba is divine.
(Divina moqueca capixaba!)

Reference

  1. http://portal.iphan.gov.br/portal/montarDetalheConteudo.do?id=12569&sigla=Institucional&retorno=detalheInstitucional

Um comentário:

Luiz Bittencourt disse...

OLÁ RENATA !! PARABÉNS MAIS UMA VEZ
NA ÉPOCA QUE VOCÊ FEZ ESTA POESIA, FALEI: "ESTA POESIA VAI RODAR O MUNDO" DITO E FEITO COMEÇOU A DAR OS PRIMEIROS PASSOS. PARABÉNS POR SUA DEDICAÇÃO AOS ESTUDOS E A DEDICAÇÃO À LITERATURA QUE TANTO AMAS!!!!
SINTO-ME MAIS ORGULHOSO!!
UM ABRAÇO SEU MARIDO QUE TE AMA
LUIZ BITTENCOURT